starlady: Remy from the movie Ratatouille sniffing herbs for a stew (cooking)
[personal profile] starlady
I had dinner with [personal profile] laurashapiro the other night, and somehow we got to talking about Japanese food. I made an epic post about this two years ago when I was living there, but I never finished the promised second half. So…here we go.


Takoyaki in Osaka.
Takoyaki are a thing in Kansai, and they are undoubtedly most popular in Osaka. It's hard to go too far without seeing a cute octopus (tako) dressed as a chef. Takoyaki are little balls of fried dough with bits of chopped octopus inside. They like them undercooked in Osaka, though, so it's important to use the little toothpicks they give you to open them up so they cool off before you try to eat them. Otherwise LAVA MOUTH.

Kushikatsu (deep fried things on sticks) in Osaka.
This is a real Osaka speciality, kushikatsu, deep fried things on skewers that you dip in sauces. They are super tasty.

Soup at Soup Stock Tokyo.
More Soup Stock Tokyo! That is cold soy milk soup in the front with beans and fruit and various things in it in the front. It is super tasty, and I'm kind of tempted to try to recreate it one of these days.

Set lunch at a cafe in Aoyama.
Set lunch at a cafe in Aoyama in Tokyo. This is why set lunches are such a good deal.

Green tea latte, macarons, and fanfic at Starbucks in Roppongi.
Green tea latte, macarons, and fanfic at Starbucks in Roppongi.

Sweet potato soup and curry at Soup Stock Tokyo.
Sweet potato soup and curry at Soup Stock Tokyo.

Set lunch at a Vietnamese place in Umeda, in Osaka.
Set lunch at a Vietnamese place in Umeda, in Osaka.

Soy milk ramen at Mamezen in Kyoto.
Soy milk ramen at Mamezen in Kyoto. This is one of those restaurants that is a dude operating out of his house and it is so good.

Tempura soba at a great place in Gion in Kyoto.
Tempura soba at a great place in Gion in Kyoto.

Spaghetti with eel in Arashiyama in Kyoto.
Spaghetti with eel in Arashiyama in Kyoto.

We accidentally got full-size parfaits!
We accidentally got full-size parfaits! As you can see my friend K is very upset about it.

Doughnut Plant doughnuts across the street from Kyoto Station.
Doughnut Plant doughnuts across the street from Kyoto Station. I've never actually been to Doughnut Plant in New York, but I go all the time in Japan.

The best inari-zushi (vinegared rice wrapped in deep-fried tofu pockets) I've ever had, of course at Fushimi Inari in Fushimi, south of Kyoto.
The best inari-zushi (vinegared rice wrapped in deep-fried tofu pockets) I've ever had, of course at Fushimi Inari in Fushimi, south of Kyoto.

At the same place. This was the best fucking kitsune udon (udon with deep-fried tofu, here served cold) I have ever had.
At the same place. This was the best fucking kitsune udon (udon with deep-fried tofu, here served cold) I have ever had.

Blurry (but delicious!) tempura fig at my favorite restaurant in Kyoto, Gogyou.
Blurry (but delicious!) tempura fig at my favorite restaurant in Kyoto, Gogyou.

The soy sauce ramen at Kyoto Gogyou. SO GOOD.
The soy sauce ramen at Kyoto Gogyou. SO GOOD.

Little cakes made with Daitoku-ji style natto at a cafe accross the street from Daitoku-ji in Kyoto.
Little cakes made with Daitoku-ji style natto at a cafe accross the street from Daitoku-ji in Kyoto.

The temple cuisine (vegetarian) bento at Hiei-zan in northeast Kyoto.
The shôjin ryôri (temple cuisine, vegetarian) bento at Hiei-zan in northeast Kyoto.


Dinner at a grill your own yakitori (fried chicken) place outside of Takamtasu on Shikoku.
Dinner at a grill your own yakitori (fried chicken) place outside of Takamatsu on Shikoku.

Sanuki udon at Konpira-san. SO GOOD.
Sanuki udon at Konpira-san. SO GOOD.

So my two friends B and K came to visit me my last week in Kyoto, and because they are great sports (in general and in terms of food) we went to Giro Giro Hitoshina, a "punk kaiseki" place that has locations in Kyoto, Honolulu and Paris. Kaiseki is a very old style of Japanese food, with lots of courses served on tiny dishes, and at the best kaiseki places it is possible to spend hundreds of dollars per person on one meal, which lasts about three or four hours. (The best place is on an island in the middle of the river in Arashiyama.) Giro Giro Hitoshina was ¥5000 per including a beer for each of us, which is a steal considering how great the food was and its on-the-canal location in Kyoto. It was probably one of the best meals I've had in my life. Here's a good write-up of it in English (except the dude's claim that it is difficult to find a decent meal under $100 is just so bizarre; he clearly doesn't know how to eat in Japan), and here's the website, in Japanese.

B wrote down what exactly was in each course, I didn't.

The first course at Giro Giro Hitoshina.
Course one. The aesthetics of the dishes are part of the experience.

Course two - eel with a tomato water reduction.
Course two - eel with a tomato water reduction.

Course three - that's potato salad in a houzuki (Chinese lantern) flower.
Course three - that's potato salad in a houzuki (Chinese lantern) flower.

Course four.
Course four.

Course five. This is ayu, a very popular sweetfish.
Course five. This is ayu, a very popular sweetfish.

Course six - a modern take on nasu (eggplant) dengaku.
Course six - a modern take on nasu (eggplant) dengaku.

Course seven, some kind of egg soup.
Course seven, some kind of egg soup.

Course eight, a kind of red rice. Note the Kyoto pickles in the gourd-shaped dish.
Course eight, a kind of red rice. Note the Kyoto pickles in the gourd-shaped dish.

The dessert course - banana ice cream, iirc.
The dessert course - banana ice cream, iirc.

(no subject)

Date: 2013-08-31 23:02 (UTC)
akamine_chan: Created by me; please don't take (Default)
From: [personal profile] akamine_chan
Looking at these pictures made me miss my mother so much. :(

Also, made me very hungry. Curry rice, eel (oh, man, I love eel so much), kamaboko in a bowl of udon, inari-zushi, yakitori, etc. *sigh*
Edited Date: 2013-08-31 23:05 (UTC)

(no subject)

Date: 2013-08-31 23:13 (UTC)
phi: (Default)
From: [personal profile] phi
Now I really miss Japan. I've had the same natto cakes at the place just outside Daitoku-ji. The kaiseki looks amazing too. I wish I had known about the punk kaiseki place when I was in Kyoto.

(no subject)

Date: 2013-08-31 23:51 (UTC)
swan_tower: (Default)
From: [personal profile] swan_tower
I can dig out my notes on the kaiseki courses, if you want.

And man, now I want to go back to Gogyou and have that cold ramen right now. Best freaking ramen of my life, and given how hot my office is right now, a cold dish sounds fantastic.

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 00:18 (UTC)
meloukhia: A hand against a grey background with text. The fingers appear to be unraveling into ink (Hand and text)
From: [personal profile] meloukhia
WHY HAVE WE NOT GONE TO THIS?!?!

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 07:56 (UTC)
oyceter: teruterubouzu default icon (Default)
From: [personal profile] oyceter
Really??? OOOOOOOOOOO....

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 00:18 (UTC)
meloukhia: Dawn from 'Buffy' wearing a gag and looking grumpy about it.  (Dawnie)
From: [personal profile] meloukhia
I am so hungry all of a sudden.

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 22:05 (UTC)
metaphortunate: (Default)
From: [personal profile] metaphortunate
Right??!

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 00:22 (UTC)
thistleingrey: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thistleingrey
The temple-cuisine bento looks delicious. I mean, most of it looks delicious, but I like temple cuisine.

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 00:50 (UTC)
rachelmanija: (Default)
From: [personal profile] rachelmanija
Thank you!

...I wish I was in Japan right now. Maybe I'll go to a Japanese restaurant.

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 01:23 (UTC)
lilacsigil: 12 Apostles rocks, text "Rock On" (12 Apostles)
From: [personal profile] lilacsigil
Missing Japanese food so much! There are places in Melbourne, but sadly I am four hours away from Melbourne, so no Japanese food for me.

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 01:37 (UTC)
sasha_feather: Retro-style poster of skier on pluto.   (Default)
From: [personal profile] sasha_feather
This post reminds of the manga Not Love but Delicious Food Makes Me So Happy. :D

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 02:30 (UTC)
toft: graphic design for the moon europa (Default)
From: [personal profile] toft
So interesting! Thanks for posting this!

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 07:58 (UTC)
oyceter: teruterubouzu default icon (Default)
From: [personal profile] oyceter
OMG want all the foooooood!!! Kaiseki! Of course Starbucks in Japan has macarons! The cold soy milk with sweet stuff! Fig tempura!

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 14:38 (UTC)
sanet: (Default)
From: [personal profile] sanet
Mmmm kushikatsu. I had it for the first time in Osaka the year before last and it was so good. But I'd forgotten the name and was calling it "tiny fried anything onna stick" when describing it to people. Thanks for the memory jog!

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-02 14:55 (UTC)
sanet: (Default)
From: [personal profile] sanet
No, I haven't! I'll have to see if I can get it in the summer. Or just go to Osaka in the winter. Next sabbatical...

(no subject)

Date: 2013-09-01 19:45 (UTC)
tuulentupa: Fairy on a butterfly (Default)
From: [personal profile] tuulentupa
Oh lord, it's a good thing I've just eaten. Looks so very delicious! And... green tea latte? I need to get one some day, somewhere.

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